SAMPLE PROJECTS

Things you would like to know about how to use

Fashenhues Translucents

Basic FASHENHUES applications


By Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins on  November 2, 2014



Many folks have been asking about basic Fashenhues application. I will try to give you that information, the way I teach, in this file.

Keep in mind that different teachers teach differently. You should find the way that you are more comfortable with and use that method.

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For doing your Fashenhues work, I suggest that you create your own color chart. Each person applies different pressure when you create your project, so someone else's color chart may not be the same colors that you achieve when you use the products.   I have posted the bottles in the color chart at this time, and will be replacing them with my own color chips in the future, to help you see the colors I get when I use our products.  

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We suggest that you use either white T-Shirt type material to wipe back, or VIVA PAPER TOWELS - untextured... Until I tried the Viva, I had always used the T-Shirts and once I started using them, I love them, and Viva is what we now use in  all my workshops.

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Also... Equate Wet Ones... These are sold at most Walmarts – in the drug department. I buy them in the white canisters, usually found on the lower shelf, and run less than $2 for a canister of 120. These wet ones are odorless and work really well for our projects. 

REMEMBER, WHEN YOU USE A WET ONE, THROW IT IN THE TRASH.

DO NOT PUT IT ON THE TABLE IN YOUR WORK AREA...

DRY YOUR HANDS BEFORE PICKING UP YOUR PIECE.

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BRUSHES - Taklon or Natural shaders or soft dry brushes are what I recommend... We use the Royals, Kala, or Dona’s in class.   I carry all three brands. NOTE: I am working on my own brush line, and will be introducing them here when I launch them.

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Always use a different clean brush for each color. As you paint and wipe back, when you change colors, lay your cloths out in front of you, with the brush you used for that color on top of your cloths. You may need these later when you clean up your piece.

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NEVER leave your brushes in water. This goes for any painting... This will cause them to come apart, and you pay too much for good brushes to ruin them by leaving them in water. Wooden handles will soak up the water, causing the paint to crack, and as the wood dries, it will shrink and the farral will come off... if plastic, the glue for the bristles will soften and your bristles will begin to fall out.

I would love to sell you more brushes, but you'd like me better if I teach you how to take care of the ones you already have. :)

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As you work on your piece, and think... "I am not happy with what I am doing"... get up, walk away, take a look at it from a distance... WOW...  it looks good.... Hold it up in front of a mirror... WOW... looks even better... holding it in front of a mirror - you see what other people see... keep in mind... YOU ARE ALWAYS YOUR WORST CRITIC... Your piece, even your first will be beautiful if you keep the following notes in mind...


1. Picking out your piece...

A. Greenware to bisque...

Be sure to clean and DETAIL your piece back very carefully. The badly detailed  pieces will show exactly that.

The more detailed piece, the more your work will show up.

B. Bisque/ Purchased Bisque...

When you purchase a piece of bisque, before beginning with your Fashenhues, look carefully to be sure it is detailed back, and cleaned well.  If necessary, use your Bisque file to fix any areas that may need attention...   remember, if you can see it, the whole world can see it... For really bad bisque, you may have to use a Dremil tool to put the details back in, or to remove seam lines... Remember, the dremil works much faster than your hand...  so proceed with caution in doing this.


2. Getting Started

A. With a soft, 1" to a 3/4" shader, load in either the C1044 White or C1048 White or C1244 Cream or C1288 Cream base coats.

B. If you use the C1244 or C1288 Cream base coats, you should put one complete coat on your bisque. Then apply one coat of C1044 or C1048 White base coat to complete your two coats of base coat. The advantage of using white over cream is that you can see where you missed basecoating, with each coat with the color difference. (Personally, I normally use white on white... I feel that I get a whiter base to start with... but I sell both). Now, if I want more of an Italian, Olive look to my finished piece, I will basecoat with C1244 or C1288 Cream.

C. Once you have your two coats of base coat dry, pour out a little - less than 1/2 oz of Antiquing Solution in a small disposable container. With another soft 3/4" brush, apply this completely over your base coat. Spread this product out, apply very

sparingly... If you have missed a spot, the bisque will soak in this product, and you will see a bit of a darker spot show up.   Wipe back with your soft cloth, and reapply the white base coat. Check your entire piece in this manor... You should not have any puddles of Antiquing solution on your piece, as you work or when you finish. If you do, you have used way too much product. Wipe your entire piece with a clean cloth to be sure the Antiquing Solution is dry throughout.

DO NOT FORGET OR SKIP THIS STEP...


3. Clean your basecoat and antiquing brushes, shape bristles back to their normal shape, lay aside to dry. 

REMOVE ALL WATER FROM YOUR WORK AREA... you will not use any water again until you finish your project. If you leave your water on your work area, you WILL put your paint brush in the water... do not do this...

so... to be sure just completely remove it from your table.





4. Applying Colors - there are several ways to apply the colors. It all depends on the final outcome you would like with your piece.   The most common application, is to brush on, wipe back softly with a soft cloth/Viva paper towels, rotating your towel, using a clean spot each time.  You will go through many paper towels - we cut a full size paper towel into 4 squares.  

There are different tips that you need for different colors as well...

A. What most folks call Antiquing... the most commonly used product for this step is S18 or S182 Brown. You can antique with any of our colors though. (see Cinder dragon, picture - antiqued in Purple)

Keep in mind a couple of things about your work as you progress...

First, do not apply more color than you can wipe back before it dries...

Secondly, once you applied and wiped back any color to  your piece, if you have to stop working on your project, put your project in a plastic bag to prevent

the colors from setting up before you begin to add your other colors.

B. Once your entire piece is antiqued, you can begin to add your other colors. If you get some color on a spot that you didn't intend, try to wipe it off with your cloth, but keep in mind, that at the end, you will go back after you complete your project and clean up any areas that need your attention.

C. BRUSH ON, WIPE BACK - This is most common method of applying the colors. Your results will depend on how hard, or softly you wipe back. Everyone uses a different pressure in their work.

D. PRESS AND ROLL is another way to do this - brush your color on, put the cloth around your finger, smoothly, and press lightly on the spot you just painted, and roll your finger across it, just enough to remove the moisture, while leaving the color on the piece.

E. BLOT is another way to apply colors. This method can be used to either initially apply the color or to darken the color.   To APPLY the color in this method, pour out a small puddle of color onto your pallet, wrap the cloth around your finger, lightly press into color, blot off to the side, on your pallet, then lightly blot (press or wipe) this color onto your piece.

To DARKEN - find an area on the cloth (with lots of color on it) that you have used to wipe back, in a brush on/wipe back off method, pat the area that you need to darken with this spot on your cloth.

F. STIPPLE - you can also "stipple" your color onto your piece. This method is usually used when you want to add a bit of spotting to fruit, etc. I pour out a drop of paint, spread it out on the pallet, and with a Deer Foot brush, tip into the paint, and lightly stipple on the side of your pallet to be sure you don't have paint blobs, then lightly stiple (tap on) your piece.

G. Special notes - when applying your reds - NEVER WIPE BACK... you will get a bright pink. For a deep RED... depending on how much I think I will use on the piece, I pour out a puddle, as I begin my project, and set it aside. This step helps the stain to thicken while I'm working on my project, and helps me to get a deeper red color on my piece. I apply the red color to everything I want to be red before blotting my reds.   Always BLOT the moisture out of the reds... again,

NEVER WIPE THIS COLOR BACK...

H. Keep in mind that COLOR ERASES COLOR... so if you have an area that is lighter than you prefer... DO NOT apply more color, wipe back, expecting it to be darker, because it will not be darker, but lighter... Blotting will darken...

I. If you find that you are leaving fingerprints on your piece, hold your piece with a paper towel.

5. BLENDING MEDIUM... Be very carefully when using the blending medium.   It can get away from you very quickly, and you will have your entire piece covered with fingerprints.   The colors are already at a good consistency when you open your new bottles.   Pour out or use a dropper to dip out your colors. Do not leave the tops off your bottles - this will cause your product to thicken.   As a rule, I always add a drop of blending medium to the following colors, every time I pour them out on my tiles - S7 Blue Gray; S9 Gray; S13 Flesh; & S38 Rose. I've found over the years, if I do not add 1 drop to these, then I get a bit of a grainy color... with the blending medium, the colors just flow and turn out very smooth.   The video on the internet shows to TIP your brush into the blending medium before every time you paint. I do not do this, nor do I teach this. The reason is, as I stated above, the products are already at a good consistency, and mostly because people do not understand the difference between TIP and LOAD... they end up loading their brushes and using way to much blending media and get themselves into trouble...

6. When you finish your piece, and are ready to spray, look it over carefully to see if there are any places that need to be touched up.  


To touch up, first, use the cloth with the color you want to be where it needs to be touched up... if that does not do it... use the brush that you applied the original color with - NO FRESH PAINT... Fresh paint will change the color. Using the brush that has dried in the same time frame as your piece, it will help you to touch up any areas that need it...

7. Earlier, I mentioned the Wet Ones. I use the wet ones to wipe the brown back in areas I want to have lighter, like on the Winken Troll's hair and beard. 

On Santa, where I want it lighter, but want the depth, I start with S-9 Gray instead of the S-18/S182 Brown... then wipe back with a cloth, and lighten the tops even more, by wiping back with a wet one...

AND... the wet ones take the colors off of your hands... just remember to throw the wet ones away, do not set down in your work area, as you might put your piece

down on one and the color will be gone.

ALSO... dry your hands before touching your piece again.

NOW... I think this covers a lot of questions... as a basic information on using Fashenhues...

Basically, Brush the colors on, lightly wipe them back... SMALL AREAS AT A TIME... APPX 3" OR LESS... do areas that you can wipe back before it dries. Especially important in workrooms that have fans...


**Totally confused now? Just send me a message at ceramictx@aol.com and I will try to answer your questions. OR... check the Fashenhues Fun group ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/FashenhuesUSCentralRegion/ ) under Events and see where there is a class/seminar close to you...

I travel teach between March - October annually... need a class in your area? Let's see what we can do if there are none presently scheduled...

WORKSHOPS, RETREATS AND SHOWS


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Link to pre-pay for your session (remember, several sold out in 2015)

http://www.pcceramicsupply.com

Go to the Workshop/Retreat/Camp tab

Scroll down to the information for the Sessions that you want to attend...


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FAIRY HOUSES IN TEXAS

BACK PORCH CERAMICS

913 Main Street

BASTROP, TEXAS 78602

August 23, 2016

 Starting at 10 am

 Lunch on your own...

Everything to complete your own Fairy House

in Fashenhues Translucents, will be provided.

Just come and enjoy... Bring a friend or two and

have a great time learning a new technique & creating

your beautiful Fairy House. 

Contact Back Porch Ceramics to reserve your seat

and to pay your session fee.

Call 615-498-1323 or drop by the shop

website to pay for this workshop

backporchceramics@yahoo.com


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PUMPKINS IN FASHENHUES

July 25, 2016

Hobby Lobby

Killeen Texas.

2 Sessions

Afternoon Session 2 pm - 4 pm

Evening Session 5:30 pm - 7:30 pm

Session Fee $25

Everything provided to complete your ceramic pumpkin.

Contact Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins to reserve your seat.

Limited Seating

FASHENHUES SESSIONS HAVE BEEN SELLING OUT

SIGN UP QUICKLY.


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Hobby Lobby

Killeen, Texas

Beginning August I will be teaching

Fashenhues sessions  on the THIRD MONDAY each month

at the Killeen, Texas location.

There will be 2 sessions each Monday

 AFTERNOON SESSION - 2:00 pm - 4:00 pm

EVENING SESSION - 5:30 pm - 7:30 pm

We will be doing a variety of items, from Ceramic Pumpkins,

Ceramic Crosses, Ceramic Fairy Houses, and more.

Check with me or watch for more information, as

the Sessions get set up.

August Sessions - Gourd Fairy House

September Sessions - Dogwood Cross

(both pieces are pictured here on this web site)

Session Fees may vary.  The sessions presently scheduled

are for $25 per session. 

Contact me to sign up as my Fashenhues Sessions have been selling out.

Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins - 940-521-2412

or send me an e-mail - ceramictx@aol.com

or if you have any questions.

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Illinois Show

August 12 & 13, 2016

(Collinsville Area Show)

Bellville Fair Grounds

Bellville, Illinois 62220

Due to special requests, I will be at the

Illinois Show, teaching Fashenhues.

Limited seating in sessions be sure to reserve your seat

early to save $5 per session.


FRIDAY SESSIONS

10:00am CROSSES

Prepayment $25... At the show $30

Choose from: Dogwood Cross, Rose Cross, Footprint Cross,

Magnolia Cross, or Poinsettia Cross.


12:30 Session Fairy Houses

Prepayment $30... At the show $35

There will be a variety of Fairy houses to choose from.

When you pay for your session,

I will let you know which ones are still available to choose from -

THIS SESSION HAS BEEN SELLING OUT AT THE SHOWS


SATURDAY SESSIONS


 11:30 Session Fairy Houses

Prepayment $30... At the show $35

There will be a variety of Fairy houses to choose from.

When you pay for your session,

I will let you know which ones are still available to choose from -

THIS SESSION HAS BEEN SELLING OUT AT THE SHOWS


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San Antonio, Texas Show

August 26 & 27, 2016


I will be teaching Fashenhues at this show

Limited seating in sessions

be sure to reserve your seat early to save $5 per session.


FRIDAY SESSIONS

10:00am CROSSES

Prepayment $25... At the show $30

Choose from: Dogwood Cross, Rose Cross, Footprint Cross,

Magnolia Cross, or Poinsettia Cross.

 

12:30 Session Fairy Houses

Prepayment $30... At the show $35

There will be a variety of Fairy houses to choose from.

When you pay for your session,

I will let you know which ones are still available to choose from -

THIS SESSION HAS BEEN SELLING OUT AT THE SHOWS


SATURDAY SESSIONS

11:30 Session Fairy Houses

Prepayment $30... At the show $35

There will be a variety of Fairy houses to choose from.

When you pay for your session,

I will let you know which ones are still available to choose from -

THIS SESSION HAS BEEN SELLING OUT AT THE SHOWS


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TEXAS CERAMIC MINI CAMP

September 8 - 11, 2016

Oak Dale Park Caboose Building,

1019 Bernard St, Glen Rose, Texas 76043

Contact Ruth Ann for reservations -

940-521-2412 or ceramictx@aol.com or on facebook

Come join us for a fun filled weekend painting and fellowship ...

Porcelain Cameos, Pumpkin Stack, and

Dona's Dressup Witch or Witches

Limited spaces... Reserve your spaces now...

Total Mini Camp Fee $200...

Deposit $50 - due by now, balance due by August 1, 2016

Cancellation date, July 15, 2016.

After that date, refunds, only - if your seat can be filled.

Link to pre-pay for your camp (remember this camp sold out in 2015)

http://www.pcceramicsupply.com

Go to the Workshop/Retreat/Camp tab


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Jonie's Pottery

Ceramics & Gifts

August 24, 2016

Nixa, Mo

Fall Pumpkin Scene 

Limited Seating

MORNING SESSION SOLD OUT

AFTERNOON SESSION JUST LISTED -

Contact Jonie Keysser on facebook,

to pay to reserve your seat.


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SESSION PAYMENTS

TO PREPAY FOR A SESSION, WORKSHOP, RETREAT, OR CAMP, CLICK BUTTON BELOW

FashenhuesbyRuthAnn Taklon Blend Brush line

MADE IN THE USA

Click on the button below to purchase brushes (Link coming soon)

#10 Shader, Taklon Blend FashenhuesbyRuthAnn
#6 Shader, Taklon Blend, FashenhuesbyRuthAnn
Angler 1/4" Taklon Blend - FashenhuesbyRuthAnn
20/0 Taklon Blend - FashenhuesbyRuthAnn
Taklon Blend - FashenhuesbyRuthAnn




SCIOTO HARVEST WREATH

Scioto Harvest Wreath

in Fashenhues, by Ruth Ann

Colors are Fashenhues Translucent Stains

(ALTERNATE INSTRUCTIONS AT BOTTOM)

Supplies:

Bisque Wreath C-104 base coat

S-11 Yellow S-12Orange

S-14 Green S-15 Red

S-18 Brown S-22 Magenta

S-23 Mediterranean Spray Sealer

Soft cloths Q-tips

8 Shader Brushes Antiquing Solution

Equate Wet Ones 3 - 1” or ¾” Shader brush

Turntable covered with foil – shiny side down


Best brushes are softer, flat dry brushes, taklon or flat shaders. Or your worn out

brushes can be taken to Fashenhues, extending the usefulness of your brushes.

To a bisque fired wreath (03-04) coat the entire piece, including the back with two coats of C-104, using your large Shader brush. Dry completely.

Test the wreath by brushing it completely with Antiquing Solution with another large shader brush (especially in the detailed areas). Any areas that did not get covered will turn slightly darker. Go back and repaint those areas. Once it is completely covered and dry, clean your brushes now, then you are ready to begin to apply color.

As you change colors, change brushes… When you finish with each color, place the cloths out in front of your work space, and put the brush with the same color on the cloth/cloths.

From here on, you will brush on, wipe off color, doing small areas at a time, unless directions tell you to do differently – and there are some areas we will do differently, so follow these directions carefully. Keep in mind – once you have applied color and wiped back… fresh color will only LIGHTEN the color, never darken the color… do not go back and add fresh color to an area that you already painted.

You will find that working on a turntable will make it easier for you to handle this wreath as you work around it.

Brush on S-18 Brown, with another large shader brush, small areas at a time, wiping back with a soft cloth as you go. Continue until the entire piece is completely brown. Do not let the brown dry before you wipe it back.

Once the entire piece is covered, with no white spots showing, begin to apply the colors. Apply colors to each item and wipe each one back as you go, starting with the leaves on the corn, using S-14 Green & a shader brush. (BRUSH ON, WIPE BACK) NOTE… IF YOU PAINT THE WRONG LEAF, THAT IS OK… MY INSTRUCTIONS ARE JUST SUGGESTIONS, YOU CAN PAINT THEM HOW YOU WANT THEM…Working to the right side of the wreath: paint the small gourd, toward the center, wiping back as you go. (skip leaves & berries) next do the leaves

toward the outside of the wreath, and under the pumpkin. (BRUSH ON, WIPE BACK) Continue with the leaf to the upper left of the pumpkin. (BRUSH ON, WIPE BACK) Move to the outside of the leaf, past the gourd, paint that next leaf. (BRUSH ON, WIPE BACK) Continuing on past the next gourd, still on the outside, paint the next leaf green. Pass the two pumpkins and paint the next gourd (bumpy one) and wipe back. At the bottom of that gourd, move to the center of the wreath, just past the two leaves under the gourd, and paint this one green, as with the others, wiping back as you go.

Going across to the outside of the wreath, paint this next leaf green, wipe. Set aside your cloth and brush as you may need them again at a later time. At this point, pour out less than a ½ of a dime size spot of S-15 RED on foil or a pallet – set aside.

Using S-22 & another brush, paint all the raspberries throughout the entire wreath and and PAT them back instead of wiping them back. Set aside brush and cloth.

Next, using S-12 Orange & another brush, paint the pumpkins and wipe them back. Also painting random leaves, and wiping back… Starting under the corn, paint the two leaves under the corn, remembering to wipe back as you go, move to the leaf just under the gourd, Moving on past the first pumpkin, paint the first leaf on the outside orange, moving to the center of the wreath paint one of the leaves in the inside orange, move out toward the next unpainted gourd, paint the leaf that is wedged between the berries and gourd. Also paint the leaf on the other side of this gourd, on the outside of the wreath in orange. Moving on around the wreath, to just under the bumpy gourd, paint the small leaf orange, then move to the outside, just

past the raspberries and acorns orange. Set aside brush and cloth.

NOTE… AS YOU PAINT THE RED, DO NOT WIPE BACK AT THIS TIME…

JUST PAINT ON THE COLOR…Using the S-15 Red, (and another brush,) that you poured out earlier, paint the all of the red holly berries throughout the wreath. Then, onto random leaves, starting with the leaf that comes from under the larger unpainted gourd, and overlapping the smaller, green gourd. Continuing on around the wreath, go to the center of the wreath and paint the next leaf, coming from the green leaf, downward to the center of the wreath – DO NOT WIPE BACK. At this time, taking another clean cloth, pat all the spaces that you painted the red. This will pull moisture out of the red, while leaving most of the color. WARNING, IF YOU RUB THE RED, IT WILL TURN PINK, AND THIS IS DIFFICULT TO REPAIR.

Again, set aside your brush and cloth.

With S-11 Yellow & another brush, beginning on the corn, apply the yellow paint to the cornels of corn, wipe back. Continue to apply Yellow to the corn, and wiping back until you get the yellow you want. You may have to scrub the tops of the cornels a little with your brush to lift most of the brown to allow the yellow to shine out. Do not take the brown out between the cornels of corn. Once you get the corn done, pick up another clean shader brush, and begin painting the unpainted leaves and gourds in yellow around the wreath, wiping back as you go… Repeat as necessary to get the yellow color that you want. Be careful not to take all the brown detail out of your leaves as you go. Each time, working to get the yellow color you want.

Set aside your cloth and brush.

Our last color is S-23. Using another brush, apply this color to all the, acorns and stems… wipe back lightly. Wipe the lids softer than the acorn, giving the lids a little more darkness than the acorns themselves… Set aside your brush and cloth.

Picking up your green cloth and find a spot on it, with a lot of green. Beginning with the first yellow leaf just left of the corn, wipe the tips of this leaf to create some dimension on this wreath. Moving around the wreath, add touches of green to leave tips here and there. Set aside this cloth.

Picking up the red cloth, locate a spot with a lot of red, begin highlighting and adding just touches of red highlights to leaves… mostly orange leaves, but you can put some color on any of the leaves. I also tip the two leaves under the corn with my red at this point. You can put more than one color on a leaf, as I did on the yellow leaf at the top, and on some other leaves throughout the wreath. Next, with your yellow cloth, begin doing highlights on the corn leaves, and continue to any other areas you would like highlighted.

Remember, this is your wreath, you can highlight where you want, the above directions are just my guide line that I paint my wreaths by, and how I teach. You can also “clean up” your wreath at this point, using cloths, brushes, and Q-tips to blend, or clean up colors that should not be where they are.

Feel free to contact me for any questions you may have.

Look your wreath over once again. Be sure there are not any white spots anywhere on your wreath. Once you are satisfied with your piece, using Spray Gloss, Seal your piece

At this point, you can clean your all of your brushes with a mild brush cleaner, rinse in clear water, pat to dry and lay down to dry completely. Not recommended to put covers back on the brushes – this can cause bristles to get bent, and if not completely dry, can cause mold to develop in your brushes. It is not recommended to stand your brushes up to dry as the water flows into the glued area and loosens the farrell and will cause your brushes to fall apart. You can dip your brushes in cheap hair conditioner and with your fingers, lightly pull any excess out, shape and lay flat to dry.

Swish in water before you use them the next time.

ALTERNATIVE SUGGESTION – DO ALL LEAVES IN GREEN – S14, HIGHLIGHT WITH S39 GOLDEN YELLOW. IF YOU DO THIS, YOU MIGHT WANT TO DO ALL THE GORDS IN S-11 YELLOW FOR A VARIETY.

SCIOTO SANTA WREATH

By Ruth Ann Perkins – 9/2012

Colors are Fashenhues Translucents and Metalics

Supplies:

Bisque Wreath C-104 base coat

S-11 Yellow S-13 Flesh

S4-Jade S-15 Red

S-18 Brown S22 – Magenta

S-23 Mediterranean L–01 Poinsettia Red

L–03 Cobalt Blue L-09 Limeade

Black Acrylic Gold, Pilot Pen

Spray Sealer 8 Soft Flat Dry Brushes

2 - 1” or ¾” Shaders 1 Tiny Detail Brush

Q-tips 1 mini shader/angler

Wet- Ones

Apron

Aluminum Foil

Antiquing Solution;

Blending Medium

Soft cloths (T-Shirt/Viva)

Gloves,if you choose

Flat, Kitchen turn table

*

Best brushes are softer, or soft, shader brushes. Or your worn out brushes can be taken to Fashenhues, for blending the edges of colors, extending the usefulness of your brushes.

*NOTE: You will use a different brush and different cloth/cloths with each color of “S” stain as you paint this wreath. You will need at least 8 different brushes. Usually a 1 or 3 (at least one 3) will do well. The tiny detailer needs to be either a 20/0 or smaller. The tiny shader or angler I recommend is a 1/8” or a 0.

*

Put your wreath on a foil covered turntable (shiny side down) – flat one like a Rubber maid type turntable is best.


To your bisque fired wreath (03-04) coat the entire piece, including the back with two coats of C-104, using your 1” or ¾” Shader brush. Dry wreath completely.


Test the wreath by brushing it completely with Fashenhues Antiquing Solution with your other shader brush (especially in the detailed areas).  Any areas that did not get covered will turn slightly darker. Pat dry with a paper towel (This does not dry, pat all the shiny areas). Go back and repaint those areas. Once it is completely covered and dry, begin to apply color. If you had a lot of places, it might pay you to check this once again. Clean your Shader brushes now. Lay aside to dry. (The one you tested with may have picked up some of the white base coat as you tested your piece.)  Using the Antiquing Solution to test for unpainted areas also conditions your piece for smoother application of the colors that you are about to apply.


As you do this wreath, you will not wash the color translucents (“S” colors) from your brushes until we complete the wreath. As you complete each color, set aside both the cloth and the brush of each color. You will find that as you continue, if you will put the brush on the pile of cloths of the same color - that will help you later on as we continue.


Brush on S-18 Brown, small areas at a time, wiping back as you go – do the back of the wreath first. Continue until the entire piece is completely brown. Use a clean part of your cloth as you go… several cloths if necessary. Do not wash your brush. Set aside your cloths and lay your brush on top


Once the entire piece is covered, with no white spots showing, begin to apply the colors. NOTE: If you HAVE to stop at this point to resume applying color at another time (& I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS), but if you just have to, place your wreath in a plastic bag to keep the color from drying out. The colors need the S-18 to be fresh to be able to move properly.


At this point, pour out a dime size puddle of S-15 Red stain and set aside, for later use.


First, wipe back the centers of the textured ornaments with a wet-one, and be careful not to pull color from the balls themselves. (If you do pull some off on accident, take your brown rag and lightly rub back color with an already dark spot on the rag.)

Also, with CLEAN wets-ones, wipe the beard of Santa, his eye brows, and the hat brim, leaving the brown in the detailed areas. Keep using clean areas on the wet ones or more, clean-wet ones, as needed.


BE VERY CAREFUL TO TOSS THE WET-ONES AWAY WHEN YOU FINISH. If you get a wet-one on your piece, anywhere it will remove color. So keep the wet-ones away from your piece except when you are using them. AND… after handling a wet-one, DRY your hands, or you will have finger prints, where you pull off color by touching your wreath with wet hands.


Dampen a Q-tip with a wet one, and carefully wipe the color out of Santa’s eyes as well.


Continuing on, use your small shader and the P-2 White Pearl – paint the center sections of all the patterned ornaments – starting at the center of each ball and pulling out to the edged. Do not wipe this product back. WASH OUT YOUR BRUSH, AFTER THIS COLOR. Lay aside to dry.


With a clean & dry, brush, brush on S-4 Jade and wipe back all the pine needles throughout the entire wreath, again doing small areas at a time. Brush and wipe. Use a clean portion of your cloth each time. Set aside your cloths and lay your brush on top – Do not clean your brush.


Next, with the S-15 you poured out earlier, paint – without wiping back - all the berries, Santa’s lip and Santa’s hat. Again, DO NOT WIPE THIS RED BACK… After applying all the red where it goes, pat the red spots back to remove the shine from the red, while still leaving the dark red color. Set aside your cloths and lay your brush on top – Do not wash your brush.


With larger shader brush, and the L-01 Poinsettia Red, paint the entire bow and extending ribbons. Do not wipe this product back. WASH OUT YOUR BRUSH, AFTER THIS COLOR. Lay aside to dry & use on other “ L” colors.


Next, put out 3 drops of S-13 Flesh on your pallet, add 1 drop of blending medium to your color, and mix well. Apply this mixture to the entire face, and “blot” back.   Very carefully wipe lightly with a clean cloth, removing just the gloss (same as the reds).


With your RED cloth, find a spot with just a little red on it and very carefully pat some red on the cheeks and tip of the nose of your Santa’s face.


With a clean area on the FLESH cloth, very lightly blend the edges of the blush to look natural. If you put too much red on for blush, then pat very carefully with the FLESH cloth, with a light flesh spot, already on the cloth, as if adding cosmetic powder to your cheeks. Do NOT wash out your brush… lay it aside, on the top of your flesh cloths. At this point, don’t worry about the flesh that you get in Santa’s eyes. We will clean it out later. If necessary, blend the cheeks so the blush is not noticable - you don't want a "painted lady" look on your Santa.


Using L-03 - Blue, paint three of the ornaments – Start at the top of the wreath, do the one with the white center between Santa’s hat and the ribbon; next, do the one at the end of the other ribbon with the larger center; finally do the one at the bottom where there are three – the one on the left, with the white center. WASH OUT THIS BRUSH NOW. Pat with a paper towel to dry, and take on to next color.


With L-09 – Limeade paint three more ornaments – The long one on the left, about half way up the wreath, by Santa’s hat; on the right top of the bow, the outer edge of the wreath, paint this ornament; finally, at the lower portion of the wreath where the three ornaments are together, paint the center one. WASH OUT THIS BRUSH NOW. Lay aside to dry.


S-11 Yellow should be applied with a “scrubbing motion” to two of the ornaments. First, the one on the top left, outside Santa’s Wreath, and wipe back lightly. Second is the third ornament in the group of three at the bottom of the wreath – again, lightly wipe this one back.. If your yellow is not as yellow as you would like, use your cloth to “blush on” a little more yellow very carefully. Set your brush on the yellow cloths that you have set aside. (If you want a brighter yellow, wipe the ornament with a wet one before applying this yellow.)


The final ornament, on the right hand, middle way up on the wreath, brush on S-22 Magenta, and wipe back. It won’t hurt to get some of this color on the white centers of this ornament. Again, set aside this brush on top of your cloths.


The pinecones, throughout the wreath are next. With a clean dry brush and the S-23 Mediterranean, paint all the pinecones, throughout the wreath, and wipe each one back as you go. DO NOT WASH OUT THIS BRUSH. Set aside cloths and lay the brush on top.


With a Q-tip and a fresh wet one, dampen the end of the Q-tip by holding the wet one around the cotton. Very carefully, clean out the eye areas on Santa’s face. This should bring the white back to the eyes. Repeat as necessary to get a nice white in his eyes. You may need more than one Q-tip.


With a very tiny shader brush or angler brush, paint a S-17 Blue circle in the middle of each eye. Lightly pat moisture out with a DRY Q-tip. Wipe most of the blue out of your brush with a clean cloth. Start at the center of the iris (circle) and lightly brush outward, making TINY lines from the center, out, all the way around the circle.


With the tip of your tiny detail brush (20/0) and your Black acrylic paint, very carefully outline the blue circle (iris), and make a tiny line at the top of each eye – as if applying a very thin coat of eyeliner, UNDER his lid. Again, (if you want lashes) with the very TIP of your brush – DO NOT PRESS DOWNWARD WITH YOUR BRUSH (“keep the ballerina on it’s toes”), starting at that line, pull out about 4 tiny lashes over his eye lid (NOT PAST THE LID). Your lashes should start at the outer edge of each eye, and should have a slight curve in them, like a stretched out “C”. This curve should begin at the liner, and go out and up… each side… out, and up… the final lash should be just above the center of the eyeball. Again, with the TIP of your brush, start just past the iris – (NOT AT THE INSIDE EDGE of each eye) – and draw a small line, under his eyeball, out to the edge of his eye on each side.


DO NOT CLOSE IN HIS ENTIRE EYE, AS IT MAKES THE EYE LOOK SMALLER. Leave the area between the corner of his eye and the iris unpainted.


Next, put a small black pupil in the center of the blue iris. Wash out your liner brush at this point.


Next, dip the “TIP” of your brush in the C-104 White and place a TINY tear drop dot in the “1 o’clock” position on each eye. This tiny highlight must be in the same spot on each eye – right top of the pupil to keep Santa from looking cross-eyed, and to give him the “twinkle” in his eye.


At this point, hold your wreath up in front of a mirror and you will be able to see what others see and will be able to see areas that need touching up…

 

Finally, using the brushes and cloths you set aside, as you painted, touch up any areas that need touching up. DO NOT DIP YOUR BRUSH BACK INTO FRESH PAINT… USE ONLY WHAT IS ON YOUR BRUSH AND CLOTHS THAT HAVE DRIED AT THE SAME SPEED AS THE ITEMS YOU’VE PAINTED. Dipping back into fresh paint will change the color that you are painting and possibly will mess up your piece.


Look at your Santa, if you happen to have gotten a lot of other colors on your Santa’s beard, hair or hat, first, wipe those areas with a wet one to remove as much as possible. Then pour out a little S-10 and dip your brush into it. Wipe most of this off onto a clean soft cloth, and using the side of your brush, lightly “wet brush” some white to each of these, as necessary, covering the other colors, while not covering the brown shading in the details. If you have to do Santa’s beard, be sure to do his hair and brows the same. It is not necessary to do the hat brim the exact same color as the beard and hair.


Once you spray this wreath, the colors will “come alive”… and you will be amazed at what you’ve done…


Taking your wreath outside, spray your wreath with Gloss Spray (I use Duncan Clear Gloss). Spray the back lightly, while holding your wreath with one hand, then spray one coat on the front. Let dry.


Bring back inside, and as soon as the back is dry to touch, set down and paint all the tops of the ornaments with the Pilot Gold Pen. Take back outside, and give the front of the wreath another coat of Gloss Spray.


Wash all brushes at this point. And, the cloths can also be washed, if you used white T-Shirt pieces. These can be reused for additional projects.


****************************************************************************************

What better way to show you the colors of our products, than to show them on  actual pieces instead of on just color chips.  I will be replacing the bottles with actual pictures of pieces I've done as I take pictures.  ​

S - 1

INDIAN

FLESH

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 2 

MOCHA


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 3

CABBAGE

GREEN

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 4

Jade


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 5

Blue-

Violet

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 6

Carmel


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 7

BLUE

GRAY

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 8

MINT

GREEN

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 9

GRAY


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 10

WHITE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 11

YELLOW


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 12

ORANGE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 13

FLESH


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 14

GREEN


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 15

Red


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 16

PURPLE

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

 S - 17

BLACK


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 18

BROWN


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 19

BLUE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 20

RED
BROWN

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 21

MUSTARD


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 22

MAGENTA


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 23

MEDITERRANEAN


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 24

MAROON


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 25

PERIWINKLE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 26

LIME


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 27

TURQUOISE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 28

BLACK

BROWN

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 29

PUMPKIN


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 30

BURGUNDY


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S -31

FUCHSIA


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 32

ROYAL

PURPLE

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 33

CHARCOAL


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 34

TEAL


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 35

COCOA


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 36

NAVY


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 37

HUNTER

GREEN

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 38

ROSE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 39

GOLDEN

YELLOW

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S 40

SAGE


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 41

SUNSET


1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 42

MORNING

GLORY

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 43

CANARY

YELLOW

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 44

BLUE

DENIM

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 45

HARVEST

MOON

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 46

PURPLE

MIST

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 47

BLACK

CURRANT

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 48

CAYENNE

PEPPER

1/2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

S - 182

BROWN


2 oz

Translucent Stains

Water soluble.

 If you have any questions that are not

answered on this web site,

please feel free to contact me see my

contact information on the right, below


Welcome to the Magical world of FASHENHUES...


MY FASHENHUES DEALERS

**************************

Ceramics & Crafts By Debbie 

710 W. Bryce Avenue

Killeen, TX 76541

United States

(254) 338-6481

**************************

Dragons to Dolls

Paula Stover

Farmersville, Tx 75442

***************************

Granny's Ceramics

5100 S University Parks Dr,

Waco, Texas 76706

United States

254-229-0130

grannyceramicshop@yahoo.com

http://grannysceramicshop.weebly.com

*******************************

Joanne Abel

Lake Placid, Florida

(863) 260-0295

******************************

Pouring Art Ceramics 

Mary Raines 

Oklahoma City, OK 73129

United States

(405) 235-7687

********************************

We're All Fired Up

Laurie Carlson

Bridgeview, Illinois

******************************

YOUR SHOP COULD BE LISTED HERE. 

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN BECOMING A FASHENHUES DEALER

PLEASE CONTACT ME AND I CAN

HELP YOU GET SET UP AND WILL BE

GLAD TO ADD YOUR SHOP TO MY

LIST OF FASHENHUES DEALERS. 

*******************************

Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins




Authorized

Fashenhues Distributor

and Traveling Instructor


As well as a

Longtime consumer of

FASHENHUES PRODUCT


Contact information:


940-521-2412


ceramictx@aol.com

or

ruthann@fashenhuesbyruthann.com


P. O. Box 148

Lometa, Texas 76853

United States



*****************************************



WATCH MY WEB SITE HERE, FOR

MORE WORKSHOPS, RETREATS

CAMPS, AND ADDITIONAL TEACHING

LOCATIONS, SUCH AS HOBBY LOBBY.

MORE LOCATIONS IN THE WORKS.



********************************************

ALL FASHENHUES PROUCTS ARE

MADE IN THE USA

BRUSHES IN THE FASHENHUESBYRUTHANN

BRUSH LINE ARE

MADE IN THE USA

THE BISQUE I USE IN MY SESSIONS IS

MADE IN THE USA

MY FASHENHUES TECHNIQUE PACKET BOOK AND INDIVIDUAL PACKETS ARE

MADE IN THE USA. 

*************************************

ABOUT THIS SITE

AND ABOUT THE AUTHOR OF THIS SITE

Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins

Ruth Ann, the Instructor

My start in the Ceramic industry was back in the early 1980s, in the DFW area of Texas, with porcelain dolls.    Once I saw and learned that I could do Fashenhues, my entire world changed.  I began doing projects for my friends, eventually came in possession of a warehouse.  I was able to start my first Ceramic shop, there in Duncanville, Texas, before I moved to Manassas, Va, for a few months for a job in another field. 

To sell or to teach, I felt that I needed to go learn how to use the products myself.  So, my certifications are in Duncan, Mayco, Gare, Doc Holiday, Ceramichrome, Kimple, Dona's and, with the previous owners, was certified in Fashenhues.  Presently, there is not a recognized Certification for Fashenhues.   My second Ceramic shop was in Graham, Texas.  Shortly after closing it, after I moved again, I had the opportunity to purchase P & C Ceramic Supply from my friends and then the retiring owners Bill & Charlotte Wilson. 

When the opportunity to become an Authorized Fashenhues Distributor, and Traveling Instructor came up, I was delighted, and blessed to be able to step into this position to share my love of Fashenhues with others.   And now, the ability to create a new web site to help others is just one more blessing...

Ruth Ann, the person

To introduce myself to the new folks who might be checking out my site, I am Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins, a Christian, mother of 3 grown daughters and one grown step son, with a host of grandchildren, and even 3 great grandsons. 

I was born in Illinois, but my family relocated in Fort Worth, Texas before I was a teenager.

The rest of the time, I've lived in Texas, other than a 6 month period where  I went to Manassas, Va to work.  Then, back to Texas, now in Lometa, Tx. 

I love my family and spend as much of the off the road time with them as I possibly can.  

My love of art is from my Mother, who was quite  artistic. 


I am so totally lucky that God has blessed me with a wonderful, large family and with so many, many wonderful friends, customers, and students.   My life is truly blessed. 


Hopefully I am able to share some of these blessings with you through my love of art and teaching.